Houses of the Nikolaiviertel on the Spree, with the spires of the Nikolaikirche and the Fernsehturm behind them, 2022.Photo: Flocci Nivis, 2022. Wikimedia Commons. CC BY 4.0.
Nikolaiviertel
Around a church begun about 1230, the GDR built just under 800 flats between 1980 and 1987. Apart from the church, only one house of 1759–61 and five houses on Poststraße kept their old fabric.
01Cleared ground
The war left the old quarter around the Nikolaikirche in ruins; the church itself was wrecked in 1945. Afterwards, says the Landesdenkmalamt, for decades the war-destroyed heart of Berlin had lain as cleared ground with a few rescued buildings and the ruin of the Nikolaikirche, just south-west of the Rotes Rathaus.
What changed it was a re-evaluation of the ‘national heritage’ ahead of the city’s 750th anniversary in 1987. The design dates from 1979; building ran from 1980 to 1987, under the architect Günter Stahn in the Büro für Städtebau, Bereich Historische Bauten, of the district building office.
Officially it was the “Wohngebiet am Marx-Engels-Forum”. Berliners called it the Nikolaiviertel.
The new quarter has just under 800 flats, 33 shops and 22 restaurants on narrow, crooked lanes. It was laid out loosely following the old street plan. The plan below shows which of its walls are actually old.



The listed ensemble, drawn to scale
fabric older than the rebuilding rebuilt with old stone, and copies new, 1980–1987 · OpenStreetMap footprints; north is up
Begun probably about 1230
The granite base of the tower is the west front of the first church, begun probably about 1230. The Landesdenkmalamt calls it the oldest standing masonry in the city.
Poststraße 23 · 1759–61
The Knoblauchhaus was built in 1759–61 for Johann Christian Knoblauch, needle-maker and silk merchant. It is one of the few representative 18th-century burgher houses still on their original site. It was never rebuilt; its roof and top floor were renewed in 1986–89.
Poststraße · 1870–1906
Only five residential and commercial houses on Poststraße came through too. They are not medieval: the Denkmaldatenbank dates them between c. 1870 and 1906.
1980–1987
The rest went up between 1980 and 1987. The tallest blocks, on Rathausstraße and Spandauer Straße, are large-panel buildings with vaulted arcades on the ground floor.
Propststraße · Nikolaikirchplatz
The gabled rows on Propststraße and Nikolaikirchplatz are free adaptations of 18th- and 19th-century burgher houses, designed by Heinz Mehlan and Rolf Ricken. They are new designs in an old manner, not copies.
Zum Nußbaum · Gerichtslaube
The Zum Nußbaum inn, the Gerichtslaube and the Fontane-Apotheke were rebuilt after real models, but not on their original sites. A copy of a lost building now stands where it never stood.
1936 · 1985–87
The Ephraim-Palais was demolished in 1936 and its carved stone stored. It was rebuilt in 1985–87, about 12 metres from where it had stood.
The whole ensemble
Yellow marks the buildings whose fabric came through the war: the church, the Knoblauchhaus and the Poststraße houses. Blue marks the rebuilt palace and the copies. Everything grey was built between 1980 and 1987.
02The Nikolaikirche
The church grew in stages: an early Gothic hall church replaced the Romanesque nave around 1300, and the present late Gothic brick hall church took its form between about 1380 and 1470. The twin spires everyone knows are not medieval. Hermann Blankenstein added them in 1876–78.
In 1945 the church was destroyed down to its outer walls and the tower base; the interior was lost except a few wall tombs. Rebuilding began only in 1982: by 1987 the roof and the whole interior, including the northern row of piers and the rib vaults, had to be renewed; the 1876–78 towers were rebuilt in simplified form. On 14 May 1987 it opened as a museum, and it is still a museum and concert venue.
The Nikolaikirche, part by part: what stands, what was lost, what was rebuilt
still standing lost rebuilt 1982–87 · open yellow: the outer walls, standing around a new interior · soft ends: dated “about” · Landesdenkmalamt Berlin. One linear scale.


03The Ephraim-Palais
Friedrich Wilhelm Diterichs built the palace in 1762–66 for Veitel Heine Ephraim, banker and mint lessee to Frederick II. It was the home of the Jewish Ephraim family until 1823, and it was regarded as Berlin’s most beautiful Rococo palace. In 1936 it was pulled down for the new Mühlendamm bridge and the enlarged lock.
But every sandstone part (columns, putti, balcony slabs, window and door frames) and the balcony and stair railings were put into storage: almost 3,000 parts, which came through the war. After nearly fifty years of storage and moves, with losses, about 20 per cent of the sandstone had to be made new. Of six relief panels, only one original was left. Franz Klinger rebuilt the palace in 1985–87, about 12 metres from its old site.
The Ephraim-Palais, on one linear time scale
Its stone parts in the rebuilding
Landesdenkmalamt Berlin: built, demolished, stored and rebuilt, each at its true year; the bar shows the share of sandstone parts made new. Linear scales.

04Copies and originals
The Gerichtslaube was built from parts of the old Berlin town hall of the 13th century. It was dismantled in 1860 and presented by the people of Berlin to William I; it stands in Babelsberg Park, Potsdam. The Nikolaiviertel’s Gerichtslaube on Poststraße is a copy.
So is the Zum Nußbaum inn. The Landesdenkmalamt lists both, with the Fontane-Apotheke, as rebuilt after real models, but not on their original sites.


05A listed ensemble
In early 2018 the whole quarter was entered in the Berlin monument list as an ensemble. The Landesdenkmalamt says that the buildings that really contain historic fabric carry the ensemble: the last remains of the historic place. The Nikolaikirche, the Ephraim-Palais and the Knoblauchhaus are now museums of the Stadtmuseum Berlin.
The Nikolaikirche is not the only medieval church left. The Marienkirche, first documented in 1292, stands just north of the quarter. Both belonged to the twin towns whose first record, a tax settlement of 1237, was written down in 1238.

The medieval towns themselves: Berlin and Cölln, the twin towns. And the museum that gave Berlin a Middle Ages: the Märkisches Museum.
Its oldest wall is a tower base from about 1230. Its streets are younger than the Berlin Wall.
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